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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.